A few of you have commented on the PTO log splitter I recently built, so I thought I would blog on how I made it. The materials were pretty easy to come by, but you will need a welder (or someone to weld) and some form of cutting metal – more than a hacksaw. I used a 9″ 110v disc cutter for cutting most of this. The kit (comprising the splitting cone, shaft, bearings and bearing housing) was bought on eBay for around £120.
In terms of materials, I used the following, the majority of which i had lying around on the estate.
1 x 1200mm x 1200mm x 1200mm steel stillage made from 50mm x 50mm box section.
1 x 1200mm x 1200mm x 3mm sheet steel
2 x 50mm x 5mm x 1697mm steel bar
2 x 50mm x 50mm x 300mm steel box section
1 x 50mm x 50mm x 100mm steel box section
1 x 60mm x 60mm x 50mm steel angle iron
1 x Log Splitting kit (spinning cone, shaft, bearings, bearing housings).
Kit Three point link brackets, three point link pins, 480mm PTO shaft.
Tools Welder, disc cutter, grinding discs, cutting discs, drill, drill bits, socket set, 8.8 grade M12 bolts, washers and nuts.
1. Cut two of the 50mm x 50mm uprights on the stillage off, flush with the base using the disc cutter. I used one of the 50mm x 50mm uprights horizontally between the remaining two. This makes the frame for attaching to the three point link on the tractor. I welded the horizontal length 1000mm up from the base, just because that was the optimum height for the tractor I use and also fabricated up some three point link brackets and welded them on in the correct place. It’s probably easier to buy three point link brackets than it is to fabricate them!
2. I then assembled the kit which contains the splitting cone, 40mm shaft with PTO splines at one and the two bearings and bearing housings. I found it was a very tight fit and a wooden drift and suitable sized hammer were required to fit it all together. It should end up looking something like the image below.
3. I used 50mm x 50mm x 300mm steel box section to mount the two bearing housings to. Drilled pilot holes and then 12mm holes and used 100mm M12 bolts, washer and nyloc nuts to mount it centrally on the two pieces of box section. The box section fits perfectly across the framework on the stillage and was then welded on, with the box section nearest the splitting cone flush with the brace as can be seen below. The 50mm box is necessary to life the shaft and PTO high enough to prevent it fouling the rear of the stillage when in use. I ground down the welds as much as possible, just so there was a tight fit between this box section and the sheet steel in the next step.
4. The 1200mm x 1200mm x 3mm sheet steel is then used as the solid base on which the logs will be split. I had some minor trimming to do, namely to make the steel sit flush against the three point link brackets at the rear of the stillage. I also had to cut a 300mm x 300mm square out of the rear of it, to allow it to slide past the 50mm x 50mm box section holding the shaft and splitting cone which has been welded on.
5. The 50mm x 5mm x 1697mm steel bar is used to brace from the rear of the log splitter to the top of the three point link frame along each side. This will prevent it from moving too much (and thus prevent it from cracking) as seen in the image below. I welded it on, before cutting and grinding down the overlaps on the upright and the rear of the log splitter base.
6. I cut one end of the 50mm x 50mm x 100mm steel box section into a 90 degree point and then welded the 60mm x 60mm x 50mm steel angle iron onto the point. This made a nice splitting wedge to weld to the steel base under the cone. it has two jobs, one is to keep the two halves of the split log apart, and the other is to prevent the cone from pulling a piece of wood between the steel base and the shaft, and potentially bending or shearing the shaft.
I hope this helps any of you who are looking to build one!